Paris Match: Le Flacon - table of the month
Chef Yoann Caloué, going against the tide of post-containment trends, is taking advantage of the reduced cutlery imposed to raise his bistronomic cuisine to the rank of gourmet cuisine, to the delight of the taste buds of his guests!
Elegance and conviviality wonderfully define the atmosphere and the plate of this gem of the Sardinian city of Geneva. Elegance for the very high room adorned with stones and glass, faultless service and presentation of the dishes. Conviviality for the transparency of the kitchen which invites itself in the room, the gluttony of a “cuisine of products”, the smile and the good humor of the young team.
It is for all this and especially for his talent, that the young Norman chef Yoann Caloué, at the helm of the Flacon since 2014, has since shone a star in the Michelin Guide. If the experience of a meal at this table remains constantly pleasing, it is even more so recently. When other brigades are now juggling two evening services and reducing their culinary offer, the Flacon seizes the opportunity to take its cuisine “a notch above” and pamper its 40 exclusive guests. The menu, resolutely succinct to be constantly renewed, also revolves around beautiful menus. More appetizers, more sweets, products available in two or three ways, more prepared, more elaborate minute preparations, the culinary prose of Yoann Caloué has never been more promising!
A cuisine that focuses on freshness and that the chef illustrates by embellishing his starters with the sweetness of seasonal fruits. Sea bream in carpaccio marinated in olive oil and lemon zest, pickled radishes, served with nectarines delicately infused in cherry vinegar. For dessert, the Valais apricot plays hot and cold and comes in a hot count, crumble, yogurt ice cream and cold soup, apricot brunoise with verbena, caramelized almonds, meringue. Everything is fresh, delicate and precise. But above all, you must not leave Yoann Caloué’s table without having tasted his light version of the famous mashed potatoes by Joël Robuchon, a perfect example of a disciple who surpasses the master …
By Sophie Bernaert
Edition Paris Match Switzerland from September 3 to October 1, 2020